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This marks pumpkin season and my favourite time of the year, especially for all the spiced dishes and other hearty meals of autumn. Today's Northwest Indian sautéed dish is one I cook often, and the blend of fresh ginger, chilli and jaggery gives it a lovely flavor harmony. The biryani, on the other hand, is packed with whole spices, basmati and clarified butter, which provide so much more flavour to the strata of grains and vegetables.

Mushroom and Squash Biryani

A celebration of curry dishes begins around October 6, so what better way to celebrate than with a rich, comforting, all-in-one-pot layered rice dish? If you like, prepare the spiced vegetable mixture element in advance and assemble all components on the day you plan to eat.

Preparation 20 min
Cooking 2 hr
Yields 4

For the vegetable curry base
4 tbsp ghee, or butter
1 tsp cumin seeds
2 dried bay leaves
4 cloves
450g white onions, peeled and thinly sliced
3 green bird's eye chillies, lengthwise slit
5cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
2 tbsp tomato puree
¼ tsp mild chilli powder, or substitute with mild paprika
1 tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp coriander powder
1 heaped tbsp greek yoghurt
300g butternut squash flesh, cubed
300g button mushrooms, trimmed and sliced
400ml vegetable stock, or water
Salt, as needed
2 tbsp chopped coriander, for serving

For the rice
200g basmati rice
2 bay leaves
4 green cardamom pods
A pinch of salt

Biryani assembly
2 tbsp melted ghee
1 pinch saffron threads, soaked in 3 tbsp warm water
1¼cm piece fresh ginger, julienned
3 tbsp finely chopped fresh mint leaves
1 tsp ground cardamom powder
1 tsp garam masala
Raita and salad, as accompaniments

Begin by preparing the curry base. Heat the clarified butter in a sizable, thick-bottomed pot on a moderate flame, add the cumin, bay leaves and cloves, and sauté for a brief moment. Add the sliced onion and cook, stirring often, for 30-35 minutes, until softened. Once onions begin caramelizing, remove half to a plate and reserve (for later use during the assembly).

Introduce the green chillies and ginger strips to the remaining onions, fry for a brief period, then mix in the tomato puree, chilli powder, turmeric and coriander, and fry for a minute. Turn down to a gentle flame, blend in the yoghurt and cook for a couple of minutes.

Add the squash and mushroom halves, toss to cover in the spice mixture, then fry for three minutes. Pour in the stock or water, and season to taste. Bring to a boil, then lower the heat, place lid and simmer for 18-20 minutes, stirring once halfway to make sure nothing's stuck to the base of the pot. Sprinkle with coriander, then remove from the heat.

Preheat the oven to moderately hot temperature. Wash the rice, then place it in a pot with a quart of water and the bay leaves, cardamom pods and seasoning. Heat to boiling, cook for around ten minutes, until partially cooked, then drain.

For assembling the biryani, place a spoonful of melted ghee in a oven-safe dish for which you have a secure cover. Spoon half the spiced vegetables, then top that with half the rice. Sprinkle a portion the saffron water, ginger, mint leaves, ground cardamom and spice blend, then top with the reserved fried onions. Layer with the remaining curry mixture, then arrange the remaining grains. Finish with the rest of clarified butter, saffron water, ginger, mint, ground cardamom and garam masala.

Seal with parchment, place lid securely, then bake on the middle shelf of the oven for about fifteen minutes, so all the flavours soak into the grains. Remove of the heat, allow to stand, keeping covered, for 10 minutes, then lift off the lid and serve with raita and salad.

Traditional Indian Achari Kaddu (Pumpkin with Pickling Spices Sauté)

The Indian word "pickling style" refers to flavouring a preparation using preserving spices, and the mix includes mustard seeds, fennel seeds, fenugreek seeds, cumin seeds, asafoetida and kalonji, but they're not used only in pickles. This mixture also appears in various types of curries and sautéed preparations, like this recipe.

Preparation 10 min
Cooking 30 min
Serves 4

1 tsp black mustard seeds
½ tsp fenugreek seeds
1 tsp fennel seeds
4 tbsp vegetable oil
1 pinch asafoetida
5cm piece fresh ginger, peeled and finely chopped
750g squash flesh, or pumpkin, cubed
1 tsp mild chilli powder
½ tsp ground turmeric
Salt, to taste
1 tbsp jaggery, or dark brown sugar
2 tsp dried mango powder

Put the mustard seeds, fenugreek seeds and fennel in a mortar, crush coarsely, then reserve. Put the oil in a spacious skillet or Indian wok on a moderate flame. Add the ground spices and the asafoetida, and fry, stirring, for a brief moment. Mix in the chopped ginger, cook for a short while, then add the pumpkin pieces, chili powder and turmeric, and sauté, stirring, for five minutes more.

Add a small amount liquid to the pot, season with salt to taste and bring to a boil. Cover, reduce the flame, and leave to cook for about twenty minutes, mixing midway through. Mix in the jaggery, crushing some of the pieces a bit, then incorporate the mango powder, stir well and present hot with chapatis or leavened bread.